"…riding seem to come from the same three traits: honesty, humility, and courage. Honest in doing just what you can do, nothing more nothing less. Humble so as not to impose oneself upon the text or the wave and to rather let what’s natural unfold. If you try to force a 360 on a wave, you’ll never make one, but instead you have to flow on the wave, letting it dictate what to do. And courage is probably the most important element of all. Wave riding is a lot about pushing through fear to hit bigger and bigger lips…"
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